I find it funny when people who know I’m a writer ask me what I do for fun. I surfed for fun for 25 years until I felt it had run it’s course for me. I remember saying when I was a teenager that I would surf forever. Somehow that seemed all I would ever need. But even surfing, having been an excitingly new and seemingly endless source of fun and enjoyment, now seems a sort of hollow and repetitive exercise. I guess I might say the same about dating. Too much investment for so little return. Who knows, maybe I’m just getting old.
Early on I felt that surfing had a lot to teach me and that perhaps once I internalized the lessons it had to offer I might not need to continue the physical act. Surfing teaches you to, literally, go with the proverbial flow, to find grace under pressure, and to always look to the next wave to be the best; to keep on living with the openness and unfettered expectancy of future possibilities.